Tucked away in the endless, unconquerable labyrinths of Bangkok’s side- and backstreets, called Sois, lies a restaurant called Napa on 26. The neighborhood is fashionable. So fashionable that the former Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva does not reside far and a few other interesting restaurants (Bo.Ian) call the area their own. Make sure to memorize the way when you go there as Bangkok taxi drivers are getting lost in the chaotic layout of the city as well as the multiple times returning visitor to Bangkok or don’t understand your directions in anything but Thai.
The restaurant has a rather intimate bar/lounge when you enter. Noise is kept to a minimum, helped also by the choice of materials. In a time when hard material in restaurant interior design dominate, the carpet floor adds a lot to the cozy, romantic but nevertheless sleek and stylish ambience. Take a step up from the bar and you are in the restaurant where warm colors dominate. Seating is very flexible, tables far away enough from each other that you can have an intimate conversation without too many ears following. Some of the chairs rather remind you of a King’s throne, also so comfortable they are.
Chef and Co-Owner William Schillinger has created an interesting but nevertheless not too adventurous menu, very French inspired though prepared with a good portion of New World fusion cooking . The dishes that we tried clearly showed signature of the chef and left no doubt about the quality of ingredients used.
We started out having the trio of Hokkaido Scallop, Tiger Prawn and Boston Lobster. Each of the seafood items was masterfully prepared and presented. Flavors of the accompanying sauces/broths were very finely balanced not to overpower the quality and freshness of the seafood. The other appetizer we shared was the Napa’s XO goose liver terrine served with very small Gewurztraminer jelly cubes. Done in the best French way and served with cracker-like tiny toast breads, the slice of goose liver had a good room temperature to develop all its aromas.
Saving space, we skipped the soups and focused on the main courses.
A roast salmon in its crispy skin with marinated tomatoes and mini salad came tastefully succulent and presentation of the plate again left no doubt that the restaurant deserves the highest recommendation by hotel concierges for honeymooners and couples looking for a special treat of the spouse.
The Monk fish medallion on eggplant caviar with cauliflower and bacon mash potato easily made it up with the other main. The eggplant caviar was more likely an extremely well balanced version of a ratatouille with eggplant and tomatoes, not dominating the fish in its tender texture and taste. The potato mash shows the creative hand of Chef William and looking back at the four courses, the term “modern Australian” came to my mind in an otherwise and already mentioned celebration of French cooking.
A small but fine selection of cheeses from the Affineur, probably not easy to find in an area like Bangkok rounded the meal.
One of the signature desserts of the house, an Armagnac infused soft parfait came in an oversize Cabernet glass, deliciously creamy but frothy and with a lightness that even full stomach could take.
Illy coffees and homemade “Apricotine” let us forget that in the meantime we already sat in the restaurant the whole evening, serviced by a crew that was attentive but very discreet and their knowledge was up with the standard of the restaurant.
Being in Asia for some time, chef skills and produce made this a very memorable dining experience for the connoisseur as well as a comfort food lover.
- Toby Frei